How to Clean Wood Furniture: A Care Guide for Solid Wood
We explain how to clean wood furniture by surface type, what to do about water rings and scratches, and which adjustments to check for squeaks, wobbles and cabinet odors.
You can clean wood furniture in three steps: dust it first with a dry, soft cloth, wipe off remaining dirt with a well-wrung cloth that’s just damp, not wet, and dry the surface right away. Don’t use abrasive sponges or harsh chemicals, and test any new product or method on a hidden corner first. How to clean wood furniture depends mostly on the surface; see the table below for details.
How to clean wood furniture: everyday care steps
For everyday care, two cloths are enough for most wood furniture: a dry one to pick up dust and a well-wrung damp one to wipe away marks.
- Dust: Wipe along the grain with a soft, lint-free cotton or microfiber cloth. Dust acts like fine sandpaper; pressing down and rubbing can leave hairline scratches.
- Wipe with a damp cloth: If there’s a stained or sticky spot, dampen the cloth with water and wring it out well. The cloth shouldn’t leave a trace of water where it touches.
- Dry: Dry the spot you wiped right away with a dry cloth. Water shouldn’t be left sitting in joints or in the recesses of carvings.
On carved areas, a soft-bristled brush makes the job easier. To dust a bookcase, empty the shelves every so often and wipe both the shelves and the top edges of the books; the space behind tightly packed books is easy to miss.
How do you clean a wood dining table?
After every meal, clear the crumbs off a wood dining table first, then wipe the top with a wrung-out damp cloth and dry it. Wipe up spills right away; use a trivet under hot pots, coasters under glasses and felt under a vase that stays in one spot for a long time. These steps are for dining tables with wood tops; for marble tops, see the marble row in the table below.
What not to use on wood surfaces
- Ammonia-based glass cleaner, bleach, alcohol, acetone, paint thinner and scouring powder
- Steel scouring pads, stiff sponges and abrasive cream cleansers
- Steam cleaners and dripping-wet cloths
- Polishing sprays whose ingredients you don’t know; some leave a film that makes touch-ups harder
Care chart by surface type
Care depends less on the wood species than on the finish applied to the surface (patina, paint, lacquer, varnish). If you were given care advice specific to your piece, follow that first.
| Surface | How to clean it | What to avoid | Example from İmhotep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Patinated and varnished wood | A dry or slightly damp soft cloth, then drying | Solvents and abrasives; trying to wipe off the distressing on the edges | Şato Armchair: varnish applied with a distressed patina technique |
| Painted and lacquered surfaces | A slightly damp cloth; if needed, water with a very small amount of mild soap, then drying | Alcohol, acetone, scouring powder; knocks from sharp, hard objects | Venedik Bed Frame: water-based paint in pastel tones; Bodrum Console: lacquer paint on the CNC-cut details of the doors |
| Marble top | A slightly damp cloth, a pH-neutral cleaner, then drying | Acids such as lemon juice, vinegar and limescale remover; letting spills sit | Louis and Bodrum dining tables: tundra gray marble tops |
| Fabric upholstery | The vacuum’s upholstery attachment; blotting stains instead of rubbing them | Rubbing stains, soaking the fabric, untested stain removers | Idea Armchair: water-repellent fabric |
| Genuine leather | A dry soft cloth; a damp cloth only after testing it on a hidden spot | Direct sun, sitting close to a heater, alcohol-based products | Venedik and Lükens leather Chesterfield sofas |
Patina is a finishing technique in which thin coats of paint and varnish are applied to the wood and some are wiped or worn away, leaving the tones underneath visible in places. The worn look on the edges is intentional, so don’t mistake it for a stain and try to wipe it off. We explain the technique in our guide to patina paint. İmhotep uses water-based paints chosen with human health in mind; “water-based” doesn’t mean a dried surface can be wiped down with lots of water.
Marble is a porous stone made of calcium carbonate; acids can leave dull marks on the surface, and colored liquids can soak in. On the Louis Marble Dining Table, the top is tundra gray marble and the legs are hornbeam; don’t apply the product you use on the stone to the wood. Ask the store where you bought the table, or a stone specialist, whether a protective sealer has been applied to the top and, if one is needed, how often it should be renewed.
Sun, heating and humidity: how wood moves
Even after it’s been dried, wood expands and contracts with the moisture in the air; what wears furniture down most is direct sun, heat from radiators and air conditioners, and sudden changes in humidity.
Woodworkers call this “wood movement.” Kiln drying brings the wood’s moisture content closer to indoor conditions, which lowers the risk of cracking and warping later on; even so, wood still moves a little with the seasons. The phrase “first-grade kiln-dried,” which comes up often in İmhotep’s product descriptions, refers to this drying. You’ll find more detail in the kiln-dried wood section of our guide to solid wood furniture.
- Sun: Surfaces that get direct sun for long periods can change tone: they may lighten, darken or turn yellow. Sheer curtains help; move the objects on a tabletop around every so often.
- Radiators, stoves and air conditioning: Don’t place furniture right in front of a radiator, a stove or the airflow from an air conditioner. Hot, dry air raises the risk of cracking, warping and joints opening up, and direct heat raises the risk of the finish blistering.
- Humidity: Don’t push furniture up against a damp exterior wall or a freshly painted wall; leave an inch or two of space behind it and air out the room regularly.
- Seasonal changes: Doors and drawers may stick slightly in humid months and show slight gaps during the heating season; this usually goes away on its own once conditions even out.
Scratches, stains and water rings: what to do about minor damage
For minor damage, start with the gentlest approach, such as drying the spot or using a damp cloth; dark stains, deep scratches and lifting finish are a job for a professional.
- White water ring: This usually forms when moisture gets trapped in the finish, and it sometimes fades on its own; dry the spot and wait. An iron or toothpaste is no sure fix, so don’t try them: heat can make the finish blister, and toothpaste is abrasive. If the ring doesn’t go away, consult a professional.
- Dark stain: This shows that the water has gone through the finish and into the wood; home remedies rarely get it out.
- Surface scratch: On patinated surfaces, fine scratches often blend into the texture. A walnut kernel or olive oil isn’t a sure fix either; both can leave marks on painted, lacquered and cream distressed surfaces, so don’t use them there. On varnished wood, test them on a hidden corner first.
- Greasy or sticky stain: Wipe it with a well-wrung damp cloth and dry it. On painted and lacquered surfaces, you can add a very small amount of mild soap to the water; on patinated and distressed surfaces, test the soap on a hidden spot first.
For deep scratches, lifting finish, blistering, burn marks or cracks, go to a craftsperson experienced in wood touch-ups; knowing which paint and varnish are on the surface makes their job easier.
When does the finish on solid wood furniture need renewing?
Refreshing a finish depends on use, not on a calendar: it comes up once wear shows on a heavily used top, and it’s usually a job for a professional. A surface with a varnish or clear-coat finish doesn’t need extra polish as part of everyday care. Oil and wax finishes are cared for differently; don’t apply an off-the-shelf polish or oil without knowing which finish was used, because an incompatible product can leave stains.
Adjustments after assembly: squeaks, wobbles and odors
If you notice a squeak, a wobble or an odor in newly assembled furniture, it’s usually a matter of adjustment involving the floor, the connections or ventilation. In the first few weeks, the joints can settle in and the wood can adjust to the humidity in the room.
| What you notice | Possible cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Squeaky bed frame | Connecting bolts or screws settling in, slats or the bed base rubbing against the frame, an uneven floor | Check the bolts or screws with the right wrench, without forcing them; seat the slats in their slots; put thin felt pads on the contact points |
| Wobbly table or chair | An uneven floor, a loosened leg joint, an extension leaf that isn’t fully seated on an extendable table | Try sliding the table over a little; put felt pads or leveling glides under the legs; check the joints |
| Wobbly wardrobe, misaligned doors | A sloping floor, a baseboard that keeps it from sitting flush against the wall, a carcass that hasn’t been leveled | Level the carcass and anchor it to the wall; if the hinges are adjustable, line up the doors with the adjustment screw; if not, don’t force them and ask the company you bought it from |
| Odor inside a cabinet | Interior surfaces kept closed for a long time, dampness, damp clothes | Open the doors to air it out; don’t place the cabinet right against a damp exterior wall; put clothes away dry |
| Drawer that’s hard to open | Overloading, an item caught in the slide, seasonal wood movement | Lighten the load; clean around the slides; don’t force the drawer |
Don’t overtighten the bolts; too much force can strip the hole in the wood. These checks apply to wooden bed frames whose parts are joined with bolts or screws.
Anchoring tall, heavy pieces such as a wardrobe to the wall is a standard safety measure, especially if there are children in the home; on a damp wall, leave an inch or two of space behind it. For drawers on new-generation soft-close slides, like those in the Arizona Wardrobe and the Arizona Bedside Table, avoid overloading as well, to protect the slides. If a problem persists after adjustment, let the company you bought the piece from know; for İmhotep products, tell us directly.
Caring for fabric and leather on sofas and bergère armchairs
On sofas and bergère armchairs, vacuum the fabric regularly, blot stains without rubbing and wipe leather with a dry cloth; the rules above apply to the wooden base and legs.
According to its product description, the linen-textured gray fabric on the Idea Armchair is easy to clean, breathable and water-repellent; that can buy you time, but still blot spills right away.
On genuine leather, a dry, soft cloth is usually enough. On leathers with special finishes, such as distressed or crackle leather, even water can leave dark marks; test a damp cloth and any care products on a hidden spot first. The natural distressed effect on the Venedik Leather Chesterfield Sofa and the crackle leather on the Lükens Leather Chesterfield Sofa are part of the design, so don’t try to even them out by wiping.
In short: keeping your wood furniture in good shape for years
Good wood furniture care comes down to doing less: dry dusting, a damp cloth when needed, and drying right away.
- Keep water, heat and harsh chemicals away from the surface.
- Protect furniture from direct sun, radiators and damp.
- In the weeks after assembly, check the joints and the leveling.
If you have a care question about the finish on your İmhotep piece, mention the product name or code and reach us through our contact page or by phone at +90 312 351 03 32; you can also see the finishes up close at our showroom in Siteler, Ankara (Karacakaya Cad. No:141/A).
Frequently asked questions
How do you clean wood furniture?
Dust it along the grain with a dry, soft cloth, then wipe stained spots with a well-wrung damp cloth and dry them right away. Avoid harsh chemicals, abrasive sponges and wet cloths. The details differ for patinated, painted and marble surfaces; if you were given care advice specific to your piece, go by that.
Why does a wooden bed frame squeak?
The squeak usually comes from the joints. In the weeks after assembly, the connecting bolts or screws can settle in and loosen slightly, the slats or bed base can rub against the frame, and if the floor isn’t level, one corner of the bed doesn’t rest firmly on it. Seasonal changes in humidity can also cause small shifts. In most cases, a simple adjustment fixes it.
How do you stop a bed frame from squeaking?
First find where the noise is coming from: lift the mattress and listen while you press on the frame at different points. Then tighten the bolts or screws with the right wrench or screwdriver, without straining the holes in the wood. Check that the slats are seated in their slots, and put thin felt pads where the bed base and frame touch. If the floor isn’t level, add felt pads or leveling glides under the legs.
Why does a dining table wobble?
Usually the floor isn’t perfectly level and one leg doesn’t sit firmly on it. Loosened leg joints and, on extendable tables, an extension leaf that isn’t fully seated can also cause a wobble. Try sliding the table an inch or two, put felt pads or leveling glides under the legs, and check the joints.
Why does a wardrobe wobble?
Because a wardrobe is tall, a slight slope in the floor is felt as noticeable movement at the top. A baseboard that keeps it from sitting flush against the wall, or a carcass that hasn't been leveled, can also make it wobble. Leveling the carcass and anchoring the wardrobe to the wall usually stops the wobble and reduces the risk of it tipping over.
Why does the inside of a wardrobe smell?
Moisture and odors build up in a closed, poorly ventilated cabinet. A new wardrobe may smell of wood and finish in its first few weeks; open the doors now and then and air out the room. A persistent or musty smell can be a sign of damp: don’t place the wardrobe right against a damp exterior wall, put clothes away only once they’re dry, and don’t overfill it.
